How to budget-travel across Southeast Asia on less than $50 a day

Cycle through the ancient structures of Angkor Complex, swing into the jade-green chill waters at Kwangsi Waterfalls, or get your skin caressed by the majestic sun as you lay on South Thailand’s beaches; travellers flock to this well-worn backpackers’ circuit, Southeast Asia, each year. Undoubtedly, the lower cost of living is one of the main reasons you have big haversacks in your face when travelling to popular destinations such as Phnom Penh,Phuket, Ho Chi Minh City, or Yangon.

Last winter, I jumped on the ‘cheap and independent travel’ bandwagon and bought myself a one-way ticket with a meagre S$1000 in my emaciated bank; after packing my obnoxious backpack that needed a lot of getting used to.

Though I came back 2 inches off my waist, many friends and like-minded travellers have been asking me how I spent 7 weeks on the road with less than S$1000. Here’s how:

1. Opt for midnight transportation to save on accommodation

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Southeast Asia has an extensive overland travel system; bus and rail. With the sleeper buses and sleeping cabins on the trains, fret not about waking up with a chronic backache.

Furthermore, you won’t spend the supposed time meant for city-exploration in the day staring out of trains’ windows. What’s more? Accommodation for the night is sorted.

2. Overland transportations > Air travel

An add-on to the aforementioned, overland travels in Southeast Asia is relatively safe – even for solo female travellers – and a more affordable alternative compared to air travel if you’re planning to linger in this region for a long period of time. You have the choice of dropping off at any station before reaching your pre-planned destination.

Another cost-saving advantage of overland travels is that bus terminals and train stations are usually located in the central area of the city compared to the airport. You can save on taxis or airport buses when getting to your accommodation.

3. Pack dry food for long journeys

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Not only will these help you cut costs, they will be your life saviour. During long overland travels such as 28 hours bus ride from Luang Prabang to Hanoi City, I ran out of local currencies and could not dine at stopovers, let alone afford those rip-off snacks from the aunties’ hand carried baskets.

4. Couchsurf as much as possible

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Who says budget travelling would be a breeze by just saving on your massive lootings at night markets and taking cheaper, budget airlines? You’ll have to start doing work the minute you purchase your plane tickets.

Once you have a brief idea on the dates around the region, start sending requests on Couchsurfing to look for Couch Hosts! Do note that some hosts will only take in members with positive reviews; this means you’ll need some time in your local community by hosting others or bringing tourists around.

Couchsurfing is non-profit organisation for travellers to ‘surf on couches’ in a new city. Not only is this a brilliant way to save costs on accommodations, you experience cultural exchange! If you have time with your hosts, you can even get tips on how to travel the city and what to avoid.

5. Don’t pick what you eat

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At the start of my backpacking trip, I had to spend double during meals because I hated those bean sprouts and raw vegetables that filled half the bowl, and I was always hungry. Think: Vietnamese Phở. After the first week, I’ve learned to stop picking at my food and I had my fill from finishing the ingredients I once disliked. After all, loving one’s food is part of understanding the culture.

If you have no dietary restrictions, go for the cheaper alternatives.

6. Set a budget every morning

After planning on the places you are going to visit, set aside money for respective transportations, entrance fees, necessities, and expenses. Trust me when I say the markets in Southeast Asia are infinite mazes. I found myself going in awe at the different products, ranging from intricate paintings to hand-sewn accessories to must-have elephant pants, and was tempted to bag them all home. While you should and can still enjoy despite travelling on a low budget, setting an expenditure ceiling every morning will increase your awareness in spending and prevent exceeding.

Given the exquisity of the goods and its relatively lower cost, you will find your wallet emptying out at an increasing pace if you don’t set yourself a budget everyday.

7. Know the different routes and local names to your destinations

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Most tourists see Southeast Asia as the paradise for taking Tuk Tuks or motorbike taxis at a negligible price. However, bear in mind that some of these tourist attractions are within walking distances or have shuttle buses to them.

When you have Wifi, or a map, note down the different possible routes and local names to your destinations. Save on Tuk Tuks and walk if possible. Also, knowing the local names to your destinations will save you the possibility of getting lost and the hassle of backtracking.

8. Avoid national and public holidays

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Don’t have to be an economist to know the price relationship with demand and supply. Avoid cities during their public holidays, as prices of accommodations and transportations will multiple by folds and may sell out.

If the public holiday is your purpose of visit, make sure you reach the place before the actual day to avoid disappointment.

For more travel tips and articles, click here.

A whole new definition to serenity at Sapa City, Northern Vietnam

Yet another overland train ride to behold. We were drawing near the last leg of our backpacking trip and decided to end our self-imposed torture, but weren't exactly that ready to fork out the remaining fortune to do it the flashpackers' way. We chose the 2nd class seats. As if the cushions seats were humans and life has taken a toll on them, they were worn and torn; still comfortable enough to last me through a 12 hours until the lady seated opposite me decided to be my number one hater and placed her feet on my seat. The blasting of traditional music did nothing but elevate my already-peaking annoyance.

Few hours of heading further up north, I was awakened by the numbing chill sent from my toes to my upper thighs, the entire train cabin was like an enlarged compartment in the fridge. The temperature outside was approximately 5 deg cel and the sun that has already took its reign did not make any difference. The quote 'the only way out is the way through' finally made sense to me. 

Just when we were bracing ourselves against the winter breeze that slapped our faces countlessly, mini van touts were tugging at our backpacks and hoodies. Tip: After you alight at Lao Cai / Sapa Train Station, you'll have to take a 2 hours mini van ride to Sapa City Centre. We were ripped off USD 10 for 2 when we could have gotten it at USD 4. Though they are pretty oligopolistic and prices might not differ, no harm trying to haggle. 

Sapa City that nestles on China's border is like a dream place out of my fantasy. Christmas trees scattered along the winding lanes of niche shops selling handicrafts, souvenirs, or snacks to warm your gloomy winter. Walking along these repeated lanes, you can smell the sweet scent of yeast fermenting into pastries and witness the smoke fogging the shop windows with the love and effort from the chefs. If your legs could take you to the further end of the city, rice terraces would be greet with a tinge of familiarity mixed with adventure. I thought to myself, "I must make it there tomorrow." Tip: Sapa City is built at the top of the mountain, so if you wanna escape the spine-chilling cold, head down to the villages where the rice terraces will act like blankets. 

I spent the entire night filling my 1.5 litered bottles with boiling water to warm the bedding and nursing my torn skin from erratic dry weather, while smog finds its way out of my nostrils like a medieval dragon.

Was so thankful that I woke up alive and kicking (the half frozen bottles away, literally) the next morning, and contemplated between gazing at the rice terraces with a few cups of hot vietnamese milk coffee from afar until it was time to head back to Hanoi, and heading to the hill tribes. Although being on the road has taught me that beauty and happiness may come in the form of free commodity, one can't have something for nothing. After a brief online research, we decided to to head to the nearest village, Cat Cat. Tips: Reviews showed that you will need a guide or transportation on your way back up. Lose all those, just be ready in a pair of comfortable walking shoes and around USD3 for entrance fee. 

Don't be surprised if you have little girls of different ethnic minority groups hating on you should you buy something from their friends. Well, we learned it the hard way. But as if Mother Nature was my biological mom, she made the flustered tourists feel at ease instantly with the distraction of waterfalls and rustling leaves.

Tips: On our way back to the mountain top (Sapa City), we were approached by many motorbikes, telling us it's a long walk. Trust your quads, 30 minutes to 1 hour uphill hike and you'll be where you started off! 

Tips: Don't forget to stop for a cuppa at one of the cafes on your way up. 

Sapa, I'll definitely be back. You're too much a mecca for cultural and natural beauty to be left ignored and a cross on my travel destination list.

Read the next post to find out how I spent my 20th birthday.

Tips I wished I knew before backpacking Southeast Asia

Backpacking trip in Southeast Asia

No matter how often I travel, it's always difficult to accurately gauge what I will need on the trip or expect, to plan ahead. I believe there's nothing such as a bad adventure; it all depends on your level of preparedness and open-mindedness.

Many travellers flock to Southeast Asia each year and it is well-worn backpackers' circuit - a finite place with infinite surprises everywhere, like a treasure hunt. This means ignoring the lofty abstracts of reality back home and dealing with only tangible problems. How much should I spend on lunch? When will I leave this city? What is this person trying to sell to me? Though i got the ropes of travelling around this region after a while, it can still be stressful sometimes. Nonetheless, there is no pressure that I should be heading somewhere newer, pronto. Navigating similar hectic-ruleless roads everyday, I felt at peace.

Last winter, I bought a one way ticket and spent 6 weeks travelling overland through Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and Cambodia. Though I didn't have any elaborated plans, these are a few things I discovered and wish I knew before I embarked on my backpacking trip. 

Take overnight buses or trains whenever possible

First overnight train ride from Bangkok to Vientiane 

Southeast Asia is a region well-known for its cheap overland travels via trains and buses. Taking buses and trains throughout Southeast Asia is generally safe and also, one of the cheaper alternatives. You can drop at any station that interests you.

However, try to take the overnight transports as it saves more time; and money in the long run. You will not waste your supposed day-travelling time stuck on the train with a sore bottom and your accommodation for the night is sorted.

Overland travels take longer than expected

Though I can half-guarantee the safety of the overland travels in Southeast Asia, I can’t say the same for the time ticking away on your watch.

Personal experience: My supposedly 20 hours bus ride from Luang Prabang to Hanoi turned into a 28 hours ride; and 28 hours land travel from Siem Reap to Vientiane turned into a 40 hours journey.

Bring along sleeping bags

Napping on Hualampong Train Station in our sleeping bags

You would be thankful for this odd shaped object you hate at the start of the trip. Sometimes, you just want to nap on the floor of train stations or the hostel bedding pales in comparison to your hygiene standards, the sleeping bag is your safest bet. Or just keeping you warm on long bus rides.

Pack dry food

They are going to be your best friend. You can pack and reseal if you can’t finish them and it’s always handy for long overland travels with no stalls on the train or buses. Worse, if you have no local currencies.

I actually celebrated my 20th birthday with my last Milo Bar on an overnight train in Vietnam.

Lessen fibrous food intake

Forget all nutritionists’ advices on 2 servings of fruits and 2 servings of vegetables when you are spending much time on land. You would want to be embracing the beautiful sunsets and iconic attractions than beating Usain Bolt’s sprint timing to the toilet.

Classic medication

Being sick is the last thing you want to happen on the trip, but it’s not something that can be avoided sometimes. Sanitation and physical fatigue is not within our control. Be prepared for the unexpected. Pack insect repellent, paracetamol, charcoal pills. You will need the last one a lot.

I fell sick on the second day of my trip and I was thankful for the stash of Paracetamol brought along.

Habitual necessities

Pack tampons. Pack condoms. Habits and sizes don’t change immediately when you’re away from home.

Eat whatever you want

Bahn Mi for less than 1USD

Street side stall in Phnom Pehn

Best fried noodles at Siem Reap Central Market

The best food is those by the road side. Eat from a restaurant or road side. If you’re not well or used to the level of sanitation, either way, you’re going to be diarrheaing your way throughout.

Know how to use the squat toilets

All of us who are used to seated toilet bowls, start training your quads in the gym. Most toilets in Southeast Asia are still the traditional squat toilet; a hole in the floor. Hope this is not much a culture shock for many of you.

Be careful with hand gestures, not everything is universal

If you think that hand gestures will save from language-barrier embarrassments, don't. There’s a reason why different cultures exist. Your hand gestures may actually be something crude in someone else’s culture.

Personal experience: I learnt it the hard way. I was calling for bill the Singaporean way but left the eatery with “foreign intruders” sign labelled on me instead.

Use the local language

You will get more patience and endearment from the locals if you use their language; even if it’s just telling them you want rice.

Respect their cultures and people

Not knowing someone else’s culture is not an excuse to not be subscribing to their norms. Do your own research or ask about the cultural norms of the place.

Respect is a two way traffic. Although the Tuk Tuk touts can dampen your mood sometimes, remember, they are just trying to earn a living. A “no” with a smile is sufficient; you don’t have to be grumpily rude to them. 

Never be too one sided with politics or share too much about your history lessons

As a historian, I know how school textbooks always subscribe to the general schools of thought and always get excited when I visit places I study about. However, NEVER ever raise controversial political questions for the locals to answer. Also, never place your pre-conceptual ideas about their culture and practises. Be open to what they share with you even if it’s the best anti-thesis to your stand.

Have local currencies and spare US dollars

Vietnam Dong's landform against the real Halong Bay's landform

As much as guidebooks would tell you that all Southeast Asian countries accept American Dollars, it is only in Cambodia where there's an official monetary system. I had problems in Laos and Vietnam, so local currencies will be the most ideal.

However, change all your home currencies to American dollars as spare cash.

Call your bank before you fly

If you’re skeptical carrying too much cash on your backpack or hand carry, remember to call all the banks to activate your cards before you take off.

Learn how to use offline Google Maps and literal hard copy maps

Here’s one good hack for the road. I don’t usually buy local SIM cards when I travel so getting to places can be a challenge when they are not iconic sites.

Load offline Google Maps of the places you want to go when you have wifi and know the routes there. Google Maps loads the details of the city when you’re online and you can save up to 6 offline maps.

But if all online and offline maps fail, it is always good to know how to read hardcopy maps. Don’t have to be a geographer, but know how to navigate the different smaller lanes from big main roads.

Flexible to changes in your plans

Due to the delays or unexpected problems, we were constantly re-routing. While it is advisable to plan ahead, be flexible and do not be panicky when you have to change your plans. Be prepared to be constantly work around the amount of time and money you have.

Know your geography and travel routes well

That being said, know your geography and possible overland routes well. It will help you so much in planning your route. Although on the world map Laos shares a 2130 kilometers border with Vietnam on the east, Phonsavan is the only city that you can get to Vietnam from Laos, and vice versa.

Feel free to skip “mandatory” tourist attractions

Hmong New Year Celebrations in Laos

Lopburi Sunflower Fields

Lopburi Sunflower Fields

Cheap clubs and Elephant camps in Thailand, Vang Vieng’s Tubing in Laos, Pub Crawling in Cambodia. If such do not interest you, skip them. Just because they are all over in guidebooks or are considered the ‘must do’, do not compromise on your interests.

Personal experience: I skipped all these because travelling is more than just snapping photos of iconic structures and getting drunk. I headed to the off beaten tracks and joining locals for their events.

DO NOT bring all your almost-spoiling stuff

The pair of shoes on the left did not survive

I did not want to use all my fancier things for backpacking, and brought all the almost-spoiling things along so I could throw them away when I am done with the trip. This idea gave me more problems. Things starting falling apart and I had to spend more, getting ripped off in the cities.

Personal experience: My hand carry did not last more than 1 week.

Set a budget everyday

The cost of living is one of the main reasons Southeast Asia is a popular destination for backpacking. Most things are so affordable and yet exquisite you would want to pack everything into your backpack. But do remember, every cent count.

Set your budget low every morning, because you will exceed.

Almost everything is negotiable

As aforementioned, the costs of most things in Southeast Asia are cheap, but they can be cheaper. Thicken your skin and slash them prices. Every cent counts. A dollar off is a dollar saved for the next item.

Electronic copies of important documents

For your convenience and accessibility.

One set of fancy clothes and covered shoes

Dinner date up to mountains

No, backpacking is not all about looking bad and being dirty. There are instances you are in need of fancy clothes and covered shoes. Don’t have to pack your prom dress along, a sun dress would do the job.

Settle your first night accommodation in the new city

Guest house at Phonsavan Bus Terminal

I learnt this the hard way. Imagine the predicament I was in when my Couchsurfing host ditched my friend and I. It was midnight and we had nowhere to go.

Settle your first night of accommodation when going to a new city. On top of that, have their contact number and address ready at your disposal.

Staying cool when things go wrong

These are desperate times when you’ve to flip through all the “keep calm and xxx” quotes.

Personal story: I nearly got raped when I was at the toilet but keep your cool; THINK of solutions.

Take sufficient photos

Wat PaHa Temple of Chiangmai

SaigonNotre Dame Basilica

Flipping through your travel photos is the best way to relive the experience. Yes, you do not want to be the annoying travellers snapping at everything. But you would not want to beat yourself when you’re home without enough pictures.

Despite the lacking memory space in my phone and already backed-up photos in my laptop, I could never bring myself to delete these photos from my phone. Long bus rides, sleepless nights, my best source of entertainment.

Back up your photos

Bayon Temple

Taking photos is one thing. Having them saved is another. 

Follow your heart; take a break when you need to

Coffee Break at Ham Tu Quan, Hanoi, Vietnam

Trust your instincts; trust your heart. When you’re tired and just want to stay in, do it. If you have that inner urge to buy something, buy it. Travelling is not a competition on the number of attractions you check off, but a better understanding of yourself. Take a break whenever you need to. Cup of coffee to gather your thoughts, sounds good?

Severe withdrawal symptoms strikes!!!

Home to Changi Airport with my best friend, my mother

Nothing beats comfort and familiarity of home.

But let me warn you, withdrawal symptoms will be severe after a long time on the road. Because ultimately, home is where the heart is.

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Whether you get your tips and knowledge from guidebooks, websites or first-hand experiences, these are the life lessons that will stay with you. After this 6 weeks-long backpacking trip around Southeast Asia, I felt myself growing into a better individual I am more in love with. Okay, I have to admit that I spent heaps of time trying to gain back my lost-ass and my cracked skin, but it was such adrenaline that fed my soul.

It's a big playground out there - picturesque places, lovable people, food you'll drool uncontrollably over, and beauty of other cultures. Start playing!

Halong Bay, friendships that weighed more than the landforms

There are many reasons for my inclination towards certain countries and their natural landforms would take up bulk of this decision-making.

I didn't get to go to Halong Bay when I went to Ho Chi Minh with Harrison earlier the same year, so obviously, it was going on my to-do-list this backpacking trip when I am up in the North.

I was expecting to be blown away (maybe literally also) by the postcard-replicated scenery I would get at Halong Bay; it was everything but that. Tips for all travellers: there is no such thing as 'higher' class boats with better beddings and greater variety of food. It was precisely because of this marketing gimmick (read: cheating tourists) that further worsened my mood at Halong Bay. Well, I paid 35USD for one night stay in Halong Bay and imagine being thrown into the same boat as unhappy travellers who paid 95USD and receiving the same treatment as us. Not the best way to start our 2days1night stay together. Who I actually pitied was not Ping and myself getting questioned as if we were on some FBI speed boat but the coordinator that has no relations with the companies that conned these people.

Anyway, like most travels, my experience at Halong Bay was not made by the picturesque sight of the landforms but the international friends we made and stuck together like family members instantly.

Everyone was so lovely in their own way and writing about it now just brought back all the feels and memories.

We were initially placed at the boat beside ours, the 'party boat' we called it. But I didn't mind this change because we indulged and exchanged our travelling experiences on this boat. But bummer, I missed sunrise the next morning.

I was about to go on ranting about the predicament we were in then when the temperature dipped at night, but let's just take it to mind that the boat crew was already doing their best to stifle everyone's angst and annoyance when the water heater failed.

The next morning, I learned that the heater and heated water were privileges not complimentary, forked out by the crew themselves to appease year-end travellers. And all of these good will in the name of: love for people. At that point of time, I felt nothing but guilt for being such a whining city brat, waking them up to fix my heater for me.

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Halong Bay, you're one location I would never return to but thank you for the experiences and friendship forged within a night; that took up pages on my personal travel log.

Love-hate relationship; first and last travel log of Chiangmai city

After nights of jolting awake by surges of sadness and days of staring at my world through the tainted rims of my tears, I've decided to be selfish; to let this overwhelming phase of life to be a mere part of my travel experiences.

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After my 20 hours 3rd class train travel from Bangkok's Hualampong Station to Chiangmai Train Station, all I could think and in need of was proper bedding and food, though I couldn't be happier that I met a Singaporean Couchsurfer on the train and finally had some company after days of solo travelling. Little (maybe never) did I expect to discover real feelings for someone at the last leg of my backpacking journey. 

Dropping my haversack at my Couch host's, Eric, apartment, we headed to the night market with Wenpu (Singaporean Couchsurfer) and quickly bonded over street food and philosophical debates. Maybe it was the intellectual stimulation I lacked and craved for the past month, I started feeling fluttery for Eric inside. 

Doi Itanon

Doi Itanon

Temple at Doi Itanon

Sticking to the plan Wenpu and I made on the train, we headed up to Doi Itanon the next morning in high hopes to find leaves enveloped by the frozen morning dew. Lost, literally and in communication, the scorching sun has already took its majestic place when we reach the highest mountain in Thailand. The closest thing to morning dew was the beads of perspiration forming on our faces.  

Weekly Muay Thai Match

It was not till the second night when we found familiarity and comfort in each other. Forcing my extra obnoxious backpacker's elephant pants on him, we went for my first Muay Thai Match together. As if we were the opposites of those shy mimosa plants, we shared our inner stirrings (or at least I did) as we sat close in between breaks of the matches, battling the winter breeze.

Despite the supposed meet up with my mates in Bangkok, I knew I had to extend my stay in Chiangmai to know this person better. I couldn't bring myself to cut off whatever (lack of) connections we established. I needed more. I wanted more.

Countdown from Doi Suthep

If someone pops the "if you had a chance to turn back time" question now, my answer would be New Year 2014 with Eric, without a doubt or hesitation. We grabbed fire crackers and Thai Whiskey and rode up Doi Suthep, this mountain not far off the city centre. Spare me from the lavish countdown parties and getting drunk in Singapore, cityscape with never-ending fireworks was all I needed to kick start my year.

Bounded by my impending school opening, we were only left with a few nights together before distance got better of us. We came up with a "dress nice, eat classy Friday" themed date up the mountains. Like we needed more memories to our bank, candles and utensils were replaced with joss sticks and hands-in-plastic-bags respectively; the motorbike's tire gave way too.

Maybe I didn't know myself as well as I thought, I was my own source of surprises. In life and travels, it was the feeling of uncontrolled falling I craved, and the lessons and adventures that were inherent. Unlike back home where everyone would question my daily life and my tangible life goals, there - it seemed that neither of us had a past or future; we were just enjoying ourselves until time runs out.

There was when I thought wrong, I actually wanted a future.

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During my painstakingly long awaited summer holidays, I found myself with turbulence-like emotions amidst the clouds. I was on my way to meet Eric in Chiangmai again.

I was cruising around Chiangmai city with my favourite blob of blonde mess once again. An unfamiliar mixture of excitement and exhaustion. Everything seemed so vivid yet so new, it felt as though it was the first time I stepped out of my own doors. I decided to learn how to love.

I revisited the places that I missed so dearly. Huay Keow Waterfalls. Smelling DeJaVu, I stripped to my bare feet and frolicked in the clear waters.

Dirty feet @ Huay Keow Waterfalls

No longer a backpacker, I could afford some cafe hopping and they served one of the best pastries I ever tried.

Happy Birthday, you. Whatever you wished for then, I hope it came/comes true.

Chai and Thai Coffee @ Bear Hug Cafe

Key Lime Pie on the left, to die for. 

My experience in Chiangmai has been and will always be too surreal to me. I've never been a real backpacker in this city. What I can accurately recollect from this city is my arms tight around my favourite being, joy-riding to hunt for good eats and watching the sun meets the horizon each day.

Months of wallowing in self-pity and weaving reunion stories that hilariously will never happen, I realised that no relationship is equal and there is always one person who comes back for more; always an imbalance in this equation. I wanted to say it was an awful feeling, but in fact, like most things connected with one's innermost desires, it was wonderful and awful at the same time.

And before these beautiful memories of Chiangmai city refused to rise anymore and be replaced with hateful resurrection of jealousies, ugliness and miseries, this is the best travel log I can provide.

Chiangmai, never again.